Charts: U.S. Consumer Outlook Q2 2025

Every quarter, McKinsey & Company surveys upwards of 100,000 consumers across 18 countries to gauge economic sentiment and its potential effect on spending. The research, called “ConsumerWise, “provides a 360° view of the consumer through the combination of our team of experts and advisors,” per McKinsey.

In April and May, the survey focused on U.S. consumers to assess the impact of tariffs on their attitudes and behaviors. The findings showed that while inflation remains the top concern among consumers, tariffs have rapidly climbed to become the second most cited issue.

In addition, most survey respondents have either adjusted their spending habits or plan to do so soon, even though the impact of tariffs has not yet materialized in store prices.

Moreover, consumers who anticipated changing their behavior frequently mentioned less spending on nonessential goods, buying fewer items, or opting for more affordable brands and products.

Great Mom Builds Global Craft Biz

Sally Wilson is a lawyer turned craft entrepreneur. She’s also an involved mother who shares her business and passions with two kids. She says being a great mom doesn’t mean sacrificing who you are.

Sally launched Caterpillar Cross Stitch a decade ago from her home in England. Fast forward to 2025, and her company has 12 employees, selling cross-stitch supplies, courses, and events to customers worldwide.

In our recent conversation, she addressed early struggles, leadership lessons, global selling, and yes, raising kids. Our entire audio is embedded below. The transcript is condensed and edited for clarity.

Eric Bandholz: Tell us what you do.

Sally Wilson: I own an ecommerce company called Caterpillar Cross Stitch. We sell cross-stitch and crochet kits, subscriptions, and run events and classes — everything stitch-related — from our base near Birmingham, England.

I launched the business nearly 10 years ago after leaving a law career I hated. I took an ecommerce course and followed the advice: find a niche, a community, and a product people love.

I bootstrapped the business from the start, using savings and reinvesting carefully. I’d always wanted to work for myself, originally thinking I’d open a law firm, but I knew I needed something outside of law.

We now have a team of 12, including my husband, who joined the business three years ago. He was an engineer, but juggling two careers and raising kids was tough. On our 10th anniversary trip, I suggested we work together toward the same goal, and he joined soon after.

Working together wasn’t easy at first. There was conflict, especially since we discussed the business at all hours. But we set boundaries and now work in separate offices. I handle marketing and design, he runs operations. We’ve found a strong balance and deep respect for each other’s roles, which makes the business — and our marriage — work.

Bandholz: How have you adapted your leadership style with a larger team?

Wilson: I’ve learned that not everyone thinks or works like me. Early on, I assumed everyone approached things the same way, but I’ve come to appreciate that people are gifted differently. This awareness has made me more mindful and patient. Now, I focus on balancing my style with what works best for the team.

In the early days, I was more rigid, expecting people to fit my workflow. Coming from a law background, where I worked alone in a closed office, this was normal. But business, especially creative work, requires more interaction. Now, I’m much more intentional about how I communicate to bring out the best in others.

I try to make our employees feel safe sharing how they best receive communication. I’ve done a lot of reading, including recently exploring the distinction between feedback and criticism. Feedback, when delivered well, is a gift — it helps relationships and growth. But criticism, even if it sounds the same, can feel harsh and unhelpful if it lacks intention. It’s all about how it’s delivered.

I’m emotional and reactive by nature. Sometimes my husband and I go to bed angry — and that’s okay. Time offers perspective, and I’ve learned to own how my words or tone contribute to how something lands.

Bandholz: What’s your vision for the business?

Wilson: I want Caterpillar to be the brand women think of for crafting, especially in the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and parts of Europe. Australia, in particular, is an exciting opportunity. The data shows a passionate, underserved community there that we haven’t fully tapped into yet. I’d love to give it more focus.

More broadly, I’m driven by the idea that you only get one life — so why not see what’s possible? That’s not about always winning or having the right answers. It’s about being resilient and reframing failure as learning. You either win or you grow. I’ve let go of fears and leaned into trusting myself: Even if I don’t know something now, I believe I can figure it out.

It comes down to grit, consistency, and a refusal to quit. That mindset has carried me this far, and it’s what I’ll continue to bring as we scale globally.

But my health and my children come first. For years, I sacrificed sleep, working until 2 a.m., and it took a toll. Now I’m more intentional. If I’m not well, the business suffers too.

As a mom, especially a female entrepreneur, there’s a lot of pressure to step back, work part-time, or choose a less demanding path.

But showing up fully for both my business and my kids is the example I want to set. I pick them up from school every day, attend nearly all their events, and I’m always available. They see how hard I work, how driven I am, and how lit up I get when things go well. I think that’s powerful for my daughter and son to see that passion.

Being a great mom doesn’t mean sacrificing who you are. I want them to grow up with open minds, strong values, and a real understanding of what it means to chase their purpose.

Bandholz: Where can people follow you?

Wilson: Our website is CaterpillarCrossStitch.com. We’re on Facebook, YouTube, Pinterest, Instagram, and TikTok.

This giant microwave may change the future of war

Imagine: China deploys hundreds of thousands of autonomous drones in the air, on the sea, and under the water—all armed with explosive warheads or small missiles. These machines descend in a swarm toward military installations on Taiwan and nearby US bases, and over the course of a few hours, a single robotic blitzkrieg overwhelms the US Pacific force before it can even begin to fight back. 

Maybe it sounds like a new Michael Bay movie, but it’s the scenario that keeps the chief technology officer of the US Army up at night.

“I’m hesitant to say it out loud so I don’t manifest it,” says Alex Miller, a longtime Army intelligence official who became the CTO to the Army’s chief of staff in 2023.

Even if World War III doesn’t break out in the South China Sea, every US military installation around the world is vulnerable to the same tactics—as are the militaries of every other country around the world. The proliferation of cheap drones means just about any group with the wherewithal to assemble and launch a swarm could wreak havoc, no expensive jets or massive missile installations required. 

While the US has precision missiles that can shoot these drones down, they don’t always succeed: A drone attack killed three US soldiers and injured dozens more at a base in the Jordanian desert last year. And each American missile costs orders of magnitude more than its targets, which limits their supply; countering thousand-dollar drones with missiles that cost hundreds of thousands, or even millions, of dollars per shot can only work for so long, even with a defense budget that could reach a trillion dollars next year.

The US armed forces are now hunting for a solution—and they want it fast. Every branch of the service and a host of defense tech startups are testing out new weapons that promise to disable drones en masse. There are drones that slam into other drones like battering rams; drones that shoot out nets to ensnare quadcopter propellers; precision-guided Gatling guns that simply shoot drones out of the sky; electronic approaches, like GPS jammers and direct hacking tools; and lasers that melt holes clear through a target’s side.

Then there are the microwaves: high-powered electronic devices that push out kilowatts of power to zap the circuits of a drone as if it were the tinfoil you forgot to take off your leftovers when you heated them up. 

That’s where Epirus comes in. 

When I went to visit the HQ of this 185-person startup in Torrance, California, earlier this year, I got a behind-the-scenes look at its massive microwave, called Leonidas, which the US Army is already betting on as a cutting-edge anti-drone weapon. The Army awarded Epirus a $66 million contract in early 2023, topped that up with another $17 million last fall, and is currently deploying a handful of the systems for testing with US troops in the Middle East and the Pacific. (The Army won’t get into specifics on the location of the weapons in the Middle East but published a report of a live-fire test in the Philippines in early May.) 

Up close, the Leonidas that Epirus built for the Army looks like a two-foot-thick slab of metal the size of a garage door stuck on a swivel mount. Pop the back cover, and you can see that the slab is filled with dozens of individual microwave amplifier units in a grid. Each is about the size of a safe-deposit box and built around a chip made of gallium nitride, a semiconductor that can survive much higher voltages and temperatures than the typical silicon. 

Leonidas sits on top of a trailer that a standard-issue Army truck can tow, and when it is powered on, the company’s software tells the grid of amps and antennas to shape the electromagnetic waves they’re blasting out with a phased array, precisely overlapping the microwave signals to mold the energy into a focused beam. Instead of needing to physically point a gun or parabolic dish at each of a thousand incoming drones, the Leonidas can flick between them at the speed of software.

Leonidas device in a warehouse with the United States flag
The Leonidas contains dozens of microwave amplifier units and can pivot to direct waves at incoming swarms of drones.
EPIRUS

Of course, this isn’t magic—there are practical limits on how much damage one array can do, and at what range—but the total effect could be described as an electromagnetic pulse emitter, a death ray for electronics, or a force field that could set up a protective barrier around military installations and drop drones the way a bug zapper fizzles a mob of mosquitoes.

I walked through the nonclassified sections of the Leonidas factory floor, where a cluster of engineers working on weaponeering—the military term for figuring out exactly how much of a weapon, be it high explosive or microwave beam, is necessary to achieve a desired effect—ran tests in a warren of smaller anechoic rooms. Inside, they shot individual microwave units at a broad range of commercial and military drones, cycling through waveforms and power levels to try to find the signal that could fry each one with maximum efficiency. 

On a live video feed from inside one of these foam-padded rooms, I watched a quadcopter drone spin its propellers and then, once the microwave emitter turned on, instantly stop short—first the propeller on the front left and then the rest. A drone hit with a Leonidas beam doesn’t explode—it just falls.

Compared with the blast of a missile or the sizzle of a laser, it doesn’t look like much. But it could force enemies to come up with costlier ways of attacking that reduce the advantage of the drone swarm, and it could get around the inherent limitations of purely electronic or strictly physical defense systems. It could save lives.

Epirus CEO Andy Lowery, a tall guy with sparkplug energy and a rapid-fire southern Illinois twang, doesn’t shy away from talking big about his product. As he told me during my visit, Leonidas is intended to lead a last stand, like the Spartan from whom the microwave takes its name—in this case, against hordes of unmanned aerial vehicles, or UAVs. While the actual range of the Leonidas system is kept secret, Lowery says the Army is looking for a solution that can reliably stop drones within a few kilometers. He told me, “They would like our system to be the owner of that final layer—to get any squeakers, any leakers, anything like that.”

Now that they’ve told the world they “invented a force field,” Lowery added, the focus is on manufacturing at scale—before the drone swarms really start to descend or a nation with a major military decides to launch a new war. Before, in other words, Miller’s nightmare scenario becomes reality. 

Why zap?

Miller remembers well when the danger of small weaponized drones first appeared on his radar. Reports of Islamic State fighters strapping grenades to the bottom of commercial DJI Phantom quadcopters first emerged in late 2016 during the Battle of Mosul. “I went, ‘Oh, this is going to be bad,’ because basically it’s an airborne IED at that point,” he says.

He’s tracked the danger as it’s built steadily since then, with advances in machine vision, AI coordination software, and suicide drone tactics only accelerating. 

Then the war in Ukraine showed the world that cheap technology has fundamentally changed how warfare happens. We have watched in high-definition video how a cheap, off-the-shelf drone modified to carry a small bomb can be piloted directly into a faraway truck, tank, or group of troops to devastating effect. And larger suicide drones, also known as “loitering munitions,” can be produced for just tens of thousands of dollars and launched in massive salvos to hit soft targets or overwhelm more advanced military defenses through sheer numbers. 

As a result, Miller, along with large swaths of the Pentagon and DC policy circles, believes that the current US arsenal for defending against these weapons is just too expensive and the tools in too short supply to truly match the threat.

Just look at Yemen, a poor country where the Houthi military group has been under constant attack for the past decade. Armed with this new low-tech arsenal, in the past 18 months the rebel group has been able to bomb cargo ships and effectively disrupt global shipping in the Red Sea—part of an effort to apply pressure on Israel to stop its war in Gaza. The Houthis have also used missiles, suicide drones, and even drone boats to launch powerful attacks on US Navy ships sent to stop them.

The most successful defense tech firm selling anti-drone weapons to the US military right now is Anduril, the company started by Palmer Luckey, the inventor of the Oculus VR headset, and a crew of cofounders from Oculus and defense data giant Palantir. In just the past few months, the Marines have chosen Anduril for counter-drone contracts that could be worth nearly $850 million over the next decade, and the company has been working with Special Operations Command since 2022 on a counter-drone contract that could be worth nearly a billion dollars over a similar time frame. It’s unclear from the contracts what, exactly, Anduril is selling to each organization, but its weapons include electronic warfare jammers, jet-powered drone bombs, and propeller-driven Anvil drones designed to simply smash into enemy drones.

In this arsenal, the cheapest way to stop a swarm of drones is electronic warfare: jamming the GPS or radio signals used to pilot the machines. But the intense drone battles in Ukraine have advanced the art of jamming and counter-jamming close to the point of stalemate. As a result, a new state of the art is emerging: unjammable drones that operate autonomously by using onboard processors to navigate via internal maps and computer vision, or even drones connected with 20-kilometer-long filaments of fiber-optic cable for tethered control.

But unjammable doesn’t mean unzappable. Instead of using the scrambling method of a jammer, which employs an antenna to block the drone’s connection to a pilot or remote guidance system, the Leonidas microwave beam hits a drone body broadside. The energy finds its way into something electrical, whether the central flight controller or a tiny wire controlling a flap on a wing, to short-circuit whatever’s available. (The company also says that this targeted hit of energy allows birds and other wildlife to continue to move safely.)

Tyler Miller, a senior systems engineer on Epirus’s weaponeering team, told me that they never know exactly which part of the target drone is going to go down first, but they’ve reliably seen the microwave signal get in somewhere to overload a circuit. “Based on the geometry and the way the wires are laid out,” he said, one of those wires is going to be the best path in. “Sometimes if we rotate the drone 90 degrees, you have a different motor go down first,” he added.

The team has even tried wrapping target drones in copper tape, which would theoretically provide shielding, only to find that the microwave still finds a way in through moving propeller shafts or antennas that need to remain exposed for the drone to fly. 

EPIRUS

Leonidas also has an edge when it comes to downing a mass of drones at once. Physically hitting a drone out of the sky or lighting it up with a laser can be effective in situations where electronic warfare fails, but anti-drone drones can only take out one at a time, and lasers need to precisely aim and shoot. Epirus’s microwaves can damage everything in a roughly 60-degree arc from the Leonidas emitter simultaneously and keep on zapping and zapping; directed energy systems like this one never run out of ammo.

As for cost, each Army Leonidas unit currently runs in the “low eight figures,” Lowery told me. Defense contract pricing can be opaque, but Epirus delivered four units for its $66 million initial contract, giving a back-of-napkin price around $16.5 million each. For comparison, Stinger missiles from Raytheon, which soldiers shoot at enemy aircraft or drones from a shoulder-mounted launcher, cost hundreds of thousands of dollars a pop, meaning the Leonidas could start costing less (and keep shooting) after it downs the first wave of a swarm.

Raytheon’s radar, reversed

Epirus is part of a new wave of venture-capital-backed defense companies trying to change the way weapons are created—and the way the Pentagon buys them. The largest defense companies, firms like Raytheon, Boeing, Northrop Grumman, and Lockheed Martin, typically develop new weapons in response to research grants and cost-plus contracts, in which the US Department of Defense guarantees a certain profit margin to firms building products that match their laundry list of technical specifications. These programs have kept the military supplied with cutting-edge weapons for decades, but the results may be exquisite pieces of military machinery delivered years late and billions of dollars over budget.

Rather than building to minutely detailed specs, the new crop of military contractors aim to produce products on a quick time frame to solve a problem and then fine-tune them as they pitch to the military. The model, pioneered by Palantir and SpaceX, has since propelled companies like Anduril, Shield AI, and dozens of other smaller startups into the business of war as venture capital piles tens of billions of dollars into defense.

Like Anduril, Epirus has direct Palantir roots; it was cofounded by Joe Lonsdale, who also cofounded Palantir, and John Tenet, Lonsdale’s colleague at the time at his venture fund, 8VC. (Tenet, the son of former CIA director George Tenet, may have inspired the company’s name—the elder Tenet’s parents were born in the Epirus region in the northwest of Greece. But the company more often says it’s a reference to the pseudo-mythological Epirus Bow from the 2011 fantasy action movie Immortals, which never runs out of arrows.) 

While Epirus is doing business in the new mode, its roots are in the old—specifically in Raytheon, a pioneer in the field of microwave technology. Cofounded by MIT professor Vannevar Bush in 1922, it manufactured vacuum tubes, like those found in old radios. But the company became synonymous with electronic defense during World War II, when Bush spun up a lab to develop early microwave radar technology invented by the British into a workable product, and Raytheon then began mass-producing microwave tubes—known as magnetrons—for the US war effort. By the end of the war in 1945, Raytheon was making 80% of the magnetrons powering Allied radar across the world.

From padded foam chambers at the Epirus HQ, Leonidas devices can be safely tested on drones.
EPIRUS

Large tubes remained the best way to emit high-power microwaves for more than half a century, handily outperforming silicon-based solid-state amplifiers. They’re still around—the microwave on your kitchen counter runs on a vacuum tube magnetron. But tubes have downsides: They’re hot, they’re big, and they require upkeep. (In fact, the other microwave drone zapper currently in the Pentagon pipeline, the Tactical High-power Operational Responder, or THOR, still relies on a physical vacuum tube. It’s reported to be effective at downing drones in tests but takes up a whole shipping container and needs a dish antenna to zap its targets.)

By the 2000s, new methods of building solid-state amplifiers out of materials like gallium nitride started to mature and were able to handle more power than silicon without melting or shorting out. The US Navy spent hundreds of millions of dollars on cutting-edge microwave contracts, one for a project at Raytheon called Next Generation Jammer—geared specifically toward designing a new way to make high-powered microwaves that work at extremely long distances.

Lowery, the Epirus CEO, began his career working on nuclear reactors on Navy aircraft carriers before he became the chief engineer for Next Generation Jammer at Raytheon in 2010. There, he and his team worked on a system that relied on many of the same fundamentals that now power the Leonidas—using the same type of amplifier material and antenna setup to fry the electronics of a small target at much closer range rather than disrupting the radar of a target hundreds of miles away. 

The similarity is not a coincidence: Two engineers from Next Generation Jammer helped launch Epirus in 2018. Lowery—who by then was working at the augmented-reality startup RealWear, which makes industrial smart glasses—joined Epirus in 2021 to run product development and was asked to take the top spot as CEO in 2023, as Leonidas became a fully formed machine. Much of the founding team has since departed for other projects, but Raytheon still runs through the company’s collective CV: ex-Raytheon radar engineer Matt Markel started in January as the new CTO, and Epirus’s chief engineer for defense, its VP of engineering, its VP of operations, and a number of employees all have Raytheon roots as well.

Markel tells me that the Epirus way of working wouldn’t have flown at one of the big defense contractors: “They never would have tried spinning off the technology into a new application without a contract lined up.” The Epirus engineers saw the use case, raised money to start building Leonidas, and already had prototypes in the works before any military branch started awarding money to work on the project.

Waiting for the starting gun

On the wall of Lowery’s office are two mementos from testing days at an Army proving ground: a trophy wing from a larger drone, signed by the whole testing team, and a framed photo documenting the Leonidas’s carnage—a stack of dozens of inoperative drones piled up in a heap. 

Despite what seems to have been an impressive test show, it’s still impossible from the outside to determine whether Epirus’s tech is ready to fully deliver if the swarms descend. 

The Army would not comment specifically on the efficacy of any new weapons in testing or early deployment, including the Leonidas system. A spokesperson for the Army’s Rapid Capabilities and Critical Technologies Office, or RCCTO, which is the subsection responsible for contracting with Epirus to date, would only say in a statement that it is “committed to developing and fielding innovative Directed Energy solutions to address evolving threats.” 

But various high-ranking officers appear to be giving Epirus a public vote of confidence. The three-star general who runs RCCTO and oversaw the Leonidas testing last summer told Breaking Defense that “the system actually worked very well,” even if there was work to be done on “how the weapon system fits into the larger kill chain.”

And when former secretary of the Army Christine Wormuth, then the service’s highest-ranking civilian, gave a parting interview this past January, she mentioned Epirus in all but name, citing “one company” that is “using high-powered microwaves to basically be able to kill swarms of drones.” She called that kind of capability “critical for the Army.” 

The Army isn’t the only branch interested in the microwave weapon. On Epirus’s factory floor when I visited, alongside the big beige Leonidases commissioned by the Army, engineers were building a smaller expeditionary version for the Marines, painted green, which it delivered in late April. Videos show that when it put some of its microwave emitters on a dock and tested them out for the Navy last summer, the microwaves left their targets dead in the water—successfully frying the circuits of outboard motors like the ones propelling Houthi drone boats. 

Epirus is also currently working on an even smaller version of the Leonidas that can mount on top of the Army’s Stryker combat vehicles, and it’s testing out attaching a single microwave unit to a small airborne drone, which could work as a highly focused zapper to disable cars, data centers, or single enemy drones. 

Epirus' drone defense unit
Epirus’s microwave technology is also being tested in devices smaller than the traditional Leonidas.
EPIRUS

While neither the Army nor the Navy has yet to announce a contract to start buying Epirus’s systems at scale, the company and its investors are actively preparing for the big orders to start rolling in. It raised $250 million in a funding round in early March to get ready to make as many Leonidases as possible in the coming years, adding to the more than $300 million it’s raised since opening its doors in 2018.

“If you invent a force field that works,” Lowery boasts, “you really get a lot of attention.”

The task for Epirus now, assuming that its main customers pull the trigger and start buying more Leonidases, is ramping up production while advancing the tech in its systems. Then there are the more prosaic problems of staffing, assembly, and testing at scale. For future generations, Lowery told me, the goal is refining the antenna design and integrating higher-powered microwave amplifiers to push the output into the tens of kilowatts, allowing for increased range and efficacy. 

While this could be made harder by Trump’s global trade war, Lowery says he’s not worried about their supply chain; while China produces 98% of the world’s gallium, according to the US Geological Survey, and has choked off exports to the US, Epirus’s chip supplier uses recycled gallium from Japan. 

The other outside challenge may be that Epirus isn’t the only company building a drone zapper. One of China’s state-owned defense companies has been working on its own anti-drone high-powered microwave weapon called the Hurricane, which it displayed at a major military show in late 2024. 

It may be a sign that anti-electronics force fields will become common among the world’s militaries—and if so, the future of war is unlikely to go back to the status quo ante, and it might zag in a different direction yet again. But military planners believe it’s crucial for the US not to be left behind. So if it works as promised, Epirus could very well change the way that war will play out in the coming decade. 

While Miller, the Army CTO, can’t speak directly to Epirus or any specific system, he will say that he believes anti-drone measures are going to have to become ubiquitous for US soldiers. “Counter-UAS [Unmanned Aircraft System] unfortunately is going to be like counter-IED,” he says. “It’s going to be every soldier’s job to think about UAS threats the same way it was to think about IEDs.” 

And, he adds, it’s his job and his colleagues’ to make sure that tech so effective it works like “almost magic” is in the hands of the average rifleman. To that end, Lowery told me, Epirus is designing the Leonidas control system to work simply for troops, allowing them to identify a cluster of targets and start zapping with just a click of a button—but only extensive use in the field can prove that out.

Epirus CEO Andy Lowery sees the Leonidas as providing a last line of defense against UAVs.
EPIRUS

In the not-too-distant future, Lowery says, this could mean setting up along the US-Mexico border. But the grandest vision for Epirus’s tech that he says he’s heard is for a city-scale Leonidas along the lines of a ballistic missile defense radar system called PAVE PAWS, which takes up an entire 105-foot-tall building and can detect distant nuclear missile launches. The US set up four in the 1980s, and Taiwan currently has one up on a mountain south of Taipei. Fill a similar-size building full of microwave emitters, and the beam could reach out “10 or 15 miles,” Lowery told me, with one sitting sentinel over Taipei in the north and another over Kaohsiung in the south of Taiwan.

Riffing in Greek mythological mode, Lowery said of drones, “I call all these mischief makers. Whether they’re doing drugs or guns across the border or they’re flying over Langley [or] they’re spying on F-35s, they’re all like Icarus. You remember Icarus, with his wax wings? Flying all around—‘Nobody’s going to touch me, nobody’s going to ever hurt me.’”

“We built one hell of a wax-wing melter.” 

Sam Dean is a reporter focusing on business, tech, and defense. He is writing a book about the recent history of Silicon Valley returning to work with the Pentagon for Viking Press and covering the defense tech industry for a number of publications. Previously, he was a business reporter at the Los Angeles Times.

This piece has been updated to clarify that Alex Miller is a civilian intelligence official. 

Charts: U.S. Retail Ecommerce Sales Q1 2025

Retail ecommerce growth in the U.S. lagged brick-and-mortar in the first quarter of this year, according to new data from the Department of Commerce (PDF).  In Q1 2025, total U.S. retail sales — online and in-store — reached $1.86 trillion, a 0.4% increase from Q4 2024, while online sales declined by 0.04% to $300.2 billion.

Ecommerce sales, per the DoC, are for “goods and services where the buyer places an order (or the price and terms of the sale are negotiated) over an Internet, mobile device, extranet, electronic data interchange network, electronic mail, or other comparable online system. Payment may or may not be made online.”

Ecommerce accounted for 16.2% of total U.S. retail sales in Q1 2025, unchanged from the prior quarter.

The DoC reports U.S. retail ecommerce sales in Q1 2025 grew by 6.1% compared to the same quarter in 2024, while total retail sales experienced a 4.5% annual rise over the same period.

Build a Business You Love

For this week’s “Ecommerce Conversations,” I’m offering another master class on entrepreneurship. It’s my fourth this year, following episodes on hiring, branding, and profit-building.

My goal is to help existing and future entrepreneurs based on operating Beardbrand, my direct-to-consumer company, for a decade now. This installment is my most important master class to date. It’s about setting priorities for business and life.

My entire audio is embedded below. The transcript is edited for clarity and length.

Purpose

A common entrepreneurial mistake is building a business without intention or purpose. There are many ways to approach entrepreneurship, but I focus on creating a company that gives me freedom — doing what I want, when I want, with people I enjoy working with. That’s my North Star, and it influences every decision.

Your North Star might be different, but it’s important to define it early. For me, I lean toward less drama and more personal freedom. Bigger companies with rapid growth often have more lawsuits, employee issues, and general chaos. I keep things simpler to avoid unnecessary headaches.

If you aim to build a massive, high-growth company and sell it for millions as quickly as possible, this approach isn’t for you. But if you value a sustainable business that supports your lifestyle and aligns with your values, that’s what I’m here to share.

Profit Equals Freedom

A common mistake for entrepreneurs is chasing revenue instead of bottom-line profit. They obsess over gross sales, but the key is what you can keep, your net profit. High revenue with slim margins won’t give you freedom.

Money has never been important to me. My first job paid $11 an hour at a Dell call center. My parents were upper-middle class and supportive, but they were not investors in Beardbrand beyond buying products and cheering me on.

What kept me afloat was simple math: spend less than you earn. When income drops, cut expenses. When income rises, save aggressively. That cycle of living below my means has created financial stability over time.

Remember, freedom comes from strong margins.

Improving margins means lower costs (mostly for products and customer acquisition), higher prices to customers, or both. Entrepreneurs tend to focus on marketing, such as Facebook and Google ads and search engine optimization. But those channels can become more expensive over time and erode margins.

It’s just as important to lower the cost of goods while improving the end products so customers will pay more. Efficient supply chains and nonstop product improvement are critical.

A common trap is holding onto low-margin products because they generate top-line revenue. If a product doesn’t contribute to your bottom line, it’s not worth keeping — you’re working for free. But don’t abandon products too quickly. Test ways to cut costs, raise prices, or acquire customers more affordably. If those efforts fail, discontinue the item.

External Funds

Entrepreneurs often take on loans or seek investors, but the goal should always be to build the company without outside debt or equity.

The traditional route — bank loans, venture capital funding, or friends and family — means taking on debt or giving up ownership. A better option is customer financing. Crowdfunding platforms such as Kickstarter sell your product to consumers before it exists, providing seed money and real-world feedback while reducing risk and maintaining ownership. No debt payments. No investors telling you how to run your business.

Before borrowing money, ask if there’s another business to build first, perhaps a product launch in small batches. To start Beardbrand, I made 100 bottles of beard oil in my kitchen. Small beginnings can still lead to freedom.

Remember why you started. Is it for freedom, wealth, or ego? For those chasing freedom, avoid debt if possible. Fund your business in a way that keeps you in control.

Long-term

Too many business owners have a short-term mindset. We’re all bombarded with stories of entrepreneurs selling their businesses for millions. That narrative gets beaten into our heads: build fast, exit fast, make millions. But think long-term. Not just five or 10 years out, but 50 or 100 years — a multi-generational business.

For that to happen, you have to love showing up every day. And that usually starts with being profitable. Losing money is not fun. Cut unprofitable products, downsize, or humble your lifestyle to fix cash flow.

Beyond finances, entrepreneurs choose who they work with. That’s a gift.

Ultimately, think about your kids. Would they want to take over your business? If so, integrate them in a way they enjoy, not out of obligation. That requires investing time with your family now, away from the business, so they’ll want to be part of it later.

Self-invest

A long-term vision does not mean neglecting other aspects of life. I’m investing in my health and mindset — ensuring my body and mind are ready for my kids, grandkids, and the company as I age.

I exercise six days a week — three lifting and three rowing. I built a garage gym for time-saving convenience.

For my mental health, my family and I travel to Denmark every summer. It’s not a vacation — I still work — but being in a new place sparks adventure. For me, that’s travel. Others may value hobbies, gardening, or whatever keeps their lives interesting.

Priorities

How we spend our time is a key decision in life. It starts with knowing our priorities — serving our body, mind, business, spouse, kids, and friends.

I write in a Moleskine notebook what’s important to me. Then I rank them. No ties, no equals. For me, family ranks above business.

But above all, I prioritize my health and mindset. I can’t show up for my wife, kids, or company if I’m absent physically, mentally, or emotionally. You can’t pour from an empty cup. Get clear on your list.

Gentleman’s Gazette Thrives on YouTube

Raphael Schneider launched Gentleman’s Gazette in 2010 as a blog for men’s style and apparel. He added his own product line in 2013, selling menswear and accessories.

He emphasizes quality in clothing and content. His YouTube channel, launched in 2015, remains essential for traffic and conversions, owing, he says, to the quality of the videos. “Ten years from now, someone can still benefit from a video we produce today,” he told me.

Raphael first appeared on the podcast in 2018. In this our latest conversation, he addressed the company’s origins, Google search, and, yes, his focus on YouTube.

Our entire audio is embedded below. The transcript is edited for clarity and style.

Eric Bandholz: Tell us about your journey to Gentleman’s Gazette.

Raphael Schneider:  As a teenager in Germany, I earned money selling items on eBay. That’s when I discovered cufflinks. I learned they required French cuff shirts and jackets, which sparked my interest in classic men’s clothing.

I went to law school thinking I could dress well every day, but I realized I hated law, so I moved to the U.S. in 2009 through an exchange program and married my girlfriend, whom I had met earlier as a student. The job market was tough, especially for foreigners, so I turned to clothing and style, my passions.

Blogging was booming then. I launched Gentleman’s Gazette in 2010 to publish articles on men’s style. Readers kept asking where I got my clothes. That led me to create Fort Belvedere, our menswear brand, in 2013. I had no product development experience, and it took time and money to get going.

Early on, I wrongly assumed that building an audience produced easy sales. But I’ve learned a lot, and I love the creativity and independence of entrepreneurship.

Bandholz: Your YouTube channel is impressive.

Schneider: Early on, our main traffic generator was Google organic search. It was our bread and butter for a while, generating around 1.5 million page views annually. Traffic ebbed, so we explored other options.

I dabbled in video as early as 2012, but we fully committed to YouTube in 2015. Being early helped, and video is a strong medium for clothing and style. You can show fabric drape, fit, and personality, which articles can’t always convey.

We chose a personality-driven approach, featuring different hosts to appeal to a broader audience. Some may like me, others might not, so variety helps. YouTube’s landscape has changed. Now there are shorts, algorithms, and more creators, but we adapt. We’re experimenting with travel-style content, allowing viewers to experience places vicariously and inspire their journeys.

Our content isn’t just “look at this pocket square.” It’s about educating and connecting with a niche audience that values classic menswear. While most people wear leisure clothes and aren’t interested in cufflinks, we serve those who are. We continue to produce foundational style content while evolving to keep advanced users engaged.

So, yes, YouTube is an essential marketing tool for us.

Bandholz: Does investing in higher-production travel videos pay off?

Schneider: Last year, we visited London to test travel content. Not everything new pays off immediately, but we track performance carefully — click-throughs via YouTube Shopping, affiliate links in descriptions, and customer feedback. While it’s hard to tie direct sales to a single video, the response from viewers has been positive.

Some videos generate more revenue than others; we analyze patterns and adjust. But we’ve realized it’s about having a range of content: top-of-funnel to raise awareness, mid-funnel like product guides, and bottom-funnel content for ready-to-buy customers, like a deep dive into pocket squares. That mix still works well for us.

Attribution is tricky. A lot gets credited to organic Google search, but we know it’s multi-touch. Someone might discover us through YouTube on mobile, but check out later on desktop via branded search.

With AI and easier video creation on the rise, content production will become cheaper, but we still see value in YouTube. Competing on Instagram is tough. There are millions of creators.

The field is smaller on YouTube, especially with location-specific travel content. Few people can travel to Vienna, speak the language, and do in-depth style content. That’s where we want to stand out — a big fish in a small pond.

Bandholz: How is AI affecting your blog traffic and strategy?

Schneider: Our focus remains on original YouTube content, though we may test YouTube ads since we have an in-house production team. AI is changing things. I’ve always believed in creating timeless value — we make our products and content to last. Ten years from now, someone can still benefit from a video we produce today.

In the past, Google reliably sent traffic if you made comprehensive content. But now, AI tools give people instant answers. They don’t want to click through multiple sites to find their needs. We’ve noticed Google is leaning more on AI Overviews and keeping users on their platform, which doesn’t help small creators like us.

We’re seeing our brand in those AI summaries, which recognize Gentleman’s Gazette as reputable, but we’ve yet to see significant traffic or conversions.

So it’s a major shift. Big players are gaming the system and flooding the web with AI content from old domains. But I still think there’s a market for real, human passion. If you’re into photography, do you want advice from AI or from someone who lives it?

We are using AI in practical ways. For example, I created a voice clone for product videos. For a tie that comes in 14 colors, I recorded just once, and AI handles the rest. Tools like that save time without sacrificing personality. I think that’s the key.

People still connect with people. We’re continuing to invest in that, stay curious, and adapt. The danger isn’t change — it’s resisting change.

Bandholz:  Is organic search traffic from Google still viable for premium-priced products?

Schneider: I’ve spoken to several search-engine experts, and they all say we’ll struggle to rank for high-purchase-intent keywords if you’re selling premium products. Conversion rates are lower for expensive items, so Google favors cheaper alternatives since it prioritizes click-throughs.

That said, we still get organic search traffic. We analyze landing pages and reverse-engineer what people might be searching for.

If someone searches for a niche item, such as a specific silk necktie, we can still rank because few apparel merchants offer those products. The key is to clarify that a premium product has specific features and a cheaper item does not.

Ranking for high-intent short-tail keywords is nearly impossible, but long-tail SEO is still viable. For example, “unlined driving gloves in lamb nappa” is specific enough to rank and reach the right buyer.

Ultimately, though, it’s more about brand affinity, like with Beardbrand, your company. People come for the lifestyle, the philosophy — they connect to the identity. That’s where premium brands still have power.

Bandholz: Where can people buy your stuff?

Schneider: Our site is GentlemansGazette.com. Follow us on YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook. I’m on LinkedIn.

Craft Whiskeys, Home Delivered

For $60, Bob DeMars’s company, Blind Barrel, will ship a package of four craft-distilled whiskey samples, unmarked, with a tasting glass. Recipients can then try them and guess the whiskey type, age, and proof.

It’s a game using Blind Barrel’s app, preferably with friends. Participants can purchase entire bottles at discounted prices.

Bob launched the business in 2021 from his base in California. In our recent conversation, he addressed the company’s growth, marketing tactics, legalities, and more.

Our entire audio is embedded below. The transcript is edited for length and clarity.

Eric Bandholz: Tell us what you do.

Bob DeMars: I’m the founder and CEO of Blind Barrels, a whiskey-tasting experience. Subscribers receive unlabeled samples and, using our gamified app, try to guess the type of whiskey, its age, and proof.  It’s fun and interactive, but what keeps members around is the exclusive access we provide.

We feature small American craft distilleries and offer special barrel picks at competitive prices — like a bottle from Still Austin, normally $80–$110, available to members for $75.

It’s a subscription starting at $59.99 for one quarter or $49.99 per quarter annually. We ship curated lineups to U.S. customers only in March, June, September, and December. We chose quarterly because creating these blind tasting lineups — sourcing, bottling, legalities — is complex.

It’s tightly regulated. Quarterly curation helps us manage inventory — each lineup is limited, high-quality, and intentionally sourced.

Bandholz: Can you sell to consumers in all U.S. states?

DeMars: We’re limited. Some states are too restrictive. For example, we don’t ship to Utah. We can ship to Hawaii and Alaska, but it costs $60 to send a $2 item, so it’s not feasible. It also depends on our fulfillment partners. Having the right ones is key for both sample kits and full bottles.

A big challenge is the distribution system. Many craft whiskeys we feature are only distributed in their home states. After Prohibition ended in 1933, the U.S. implemented a unique three-tier system: producers must sell to distributors, who then sell to retailers, and only then to consumers. This setup doesn’t exist anywhere else worldwide and creates a stranglehold on access.

As a retailer, we sell to end users. We need the craft brands to get their products into at least one distributor in a compliant state. From there, our fulfillment partners can legally ship to most other states. It’s a complex process, but we’ve figured out how to navigate it.

Bandholz: Do you include big whiskey brands?

DeMars: We don’t feature the big guys — there’s nothing special about including a Jim Beam or Maker’s Mark in a tasting lineup. Even something like Johnnie Walker Blue is mass-produced. The big brands dominate through distribution. That’s why you see the same bottles in every bar and liquor store.

Craft producers, on the other hand, make some of the best whiskey in the country, but no one outside their region knows they exist. Our goal is to spotlight those hidden gems.

We don’t select brands — we select whiskeys. We build every lineup through blind tastings. No brand can buy its way in, and we don’t charge marketing fees. If your whiskey is in our lineup, it’s outstanding.

Craft distillers drive innovation. They’ve pioneered barrel finishes and experimental mash bills — recipes — and the big brands are starting to follow. Craft is where the creativity lives.

Bandholz: What are your shipping and product costs?

DeMars: Our boxes cost about $2, and the glass bottles, landed with shipping, are about $2.50. I called seemingly every vendor in the country to get those rates.

Even then, we pay slightly above cost for whiskey because it has to move through the three-tier system. So between the whiskey, bottles, caps, and shipping, our margins are roughly 50%.

The first kit we ship is basically breakeven — we don’t make or lose money. Profit comes from retention. We were profitable in our first year, but reinvested everything into site optimization and marketing.

When we launched, our website purchase conversion rate was just 0.6%. After tweaks, we hit 1.6%, and then I brought in an expert — we’re now at 3%.

The real game-changer has been low churn. The industry average for alcohol subscriptions is 10–12%; we’re under 3.5%. That loyalty saved us when conversions were low.

People share the kits with friends, especially now that we’ve gamified the experience. It creates viral momentum. Great whiskey is meant to be shared.

Bandholz: How do you acquire customers?

DeMars: We have multiple tactics. I didn’t raise much outside capital — I put in most of the funds myself because this was a risky model.

One of our first breaks came from a prominent Southern California FM radio host who joined as an advisor. He talked about us on-air, and suddenly 50% of our first few hundred members came from those mentions. That gave us enough cash flow to start testing marketing.

Now, our main acquisition channels are email and Google and Meta ads. We don’t use SMS much yet but plan to test it. Father’s Day and Christmas are big for us. We’ve grown revenue by around 25% per quarter.

I’ve bootstrapped everything. I didn’t take a salary until we hit 2,500 members. I managed all advertising and social content at first. I’m a filmmaker, so that helped. Meta ads can be tricky for alcohol brands.

For example, Meta doesn’t allow targeting consumers by age using Advantage+. We’re on our fifth marketing team, and they finally get it. They understand the brand, and I no longer have to carry the whole creative load.

Bandholz: Where can people subscribe?

DeMars: Our site is BlindBarrels.com. You can follow us on TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube. I’m on LinkedIn.

Sweeping tariffs could threaten the US manufacturing rebound

Despite the geopolitical chaos and market collapses triggered by President Trump’s announcement of broad tariffs on international goods, some supporters still hope the strategy will produce a “golden age” of American industry. Trump himself insists, “Jobs and factories will come roaring back into our country.”

While it’s possible that very targeted tariffs could help protect some nascent sectors of domestic manufacturing, the belief in the power of blunt tariffs flies in the face of manufacturing reality. And it’s not just the idea of a speedy return to economic prowess thanks to smoke-belching factories and the sudden ability to cheaply assemble armies of iPhones that strains credulity. The sweeping tariffs ignore the complexities of today’s supply chains and the way technology advances are shifting how and where goods are made.

In fact, the high and crudely designed tariffs set out by the administration could damage a recent rebound in US manufacturing. Building factories and the supply chains they run on takes years—even decades—of steady investment. Meanwhile, tariffs have the immediate impact of boosting costs for critical supplies, many of which come from overseas—helping to raise prices and, in turn, slowing demand.

None of that is good for those planning to invest in US manufacturing.

“Tariffs, in general, as a tool for encouraging the type of manufacturing we want in the US are a terrible instrument,” says Elisabeth Reynolds, a professor of the practice at MIT.

Reynolds, who was an advisor to President Biden on manufacturing and economic development, says the Trump tariffs will raise the costs of US manufacturing without providing incentives for “strategic investments in the technologies we care about for national and economic security.”

Willy Shih, a professor at Harvard Business School, says the tariffs feel like “random acts of violence” in how they hurt manufacturing and supply chains. Because the tariffs proposed so far “are so scattershot and change so often,” he says, “it’s basically freezing up investments. Who is going to make any kind of investment commitment when things are changing so fast?”

There are already indications that the prospect of widespread tariffs could be harming the US manufacturing boom. One closely scrutinized survey called the Purchasing Managers’ Index, or PMI, showed troubling early signs of rising costs for manufacturers due to the tariffs. Other indicators watched carefully by policy wonks, including surveys of manufacturers by the New York Federal Reserve Bank, the Richmond Fed, and the Philadelphia Fed, also show a loss of confidence among US producers and drops in new orders and hiring.

The longer-terms effects of the tariffs are, of course, unknown. For one thing, the specifics—how large, how long, and on what countries—seem to be constantly shifting. And that’s a big part of the problem: For manufacturers and investors, uncertainty is the killer of plans for expansion, new factories, and even the R&D that feeds into new products.

It’s that uncertainty, above all else, that could derail a reindustrialization still in the early stages for much of the country.

In fact, US manufacturing in the years following the covid pandemic has been booming—or at least the groundwork for such a boom is getting built. Until the most recent few months, spending on the construction of factories had been soaring. New facilities to build batteries, solar cells, semiconductors, electric motors, and other new technologies are springing up all around the country—or were until very recently.

“We never had more construction starts in the United States than we’ve had in the past four years,” says Milo Werner, a partner at the venture capital firm DCVC. “We’re at this amazing moment where we could actually rebuild Main Street America and bring back the industrial base.”

The move to bolster US manufacturing was fueled by a sense during the beginning of the pandemic that the country must regain the ability to make critical products and technologies. The decline of US manufacturing had become obvious. Federal support to rebuild the industrial base came in a series of bills passed during the Biden administration, including the CHIPS and Science Act and the climate bill.

At the same time, opportunities offered by artificial intelligence and automation breakthroughs have spurred an appetite for new investments among many manufacturers. Many of those technologies are just starting to be deployed, but they promise a way for US producers to finally become more competitive with those in low-wage economies.

If the Trump tariffs slow or even reverse such progress, the impact on the country’s economic and technological future could be devastating.

There are a lot of reasons to want a stronger US industrial base. But it’s not mainly about whether we have countless well-paying jobs for those with only a high school diploma and little technical training, despite what you will hear from many politicians. Those days are mostly long gone.

Manufacturing jobs account for a little under 10% of total jobs in the US. That percentage hasn’t changed much over the last few decades—nor is it likely to grow much in coming years even if manufacturing output increases, because automation and other advanced digital tools will likely cut into the demand for human workers.

Still, manufacturing is critical to the future of the US economy in other ways. The invention of new stuff and production processes greatly benefits from an intimate connection to manufacturing capabilities and expertise. In short, your chances of successfully creating a new type of battery or AI chip are much greater if you’re familiar with the intricacies of manufacturing such products.

It’s a lesson that was often forgotten in the 2000s as companies, led by such Silicon Valley giants as Apple, focused on design and marketing, leaving the production work to China and other countries. The strategy created huge profits but severely crimped the United States’ ability to move ahead with a next generation of technology. In 2010, Intel cofounder Andy Grove famously warned, “Abandoning today’s ‘commodity’ manufacturing can lock you out of tomorrow’s emerging industry.”

Prompted by such concerns, in 2011 I visited manufacturers across the country, from industrial giants like GE and Dow Chemical to startups with exciting new technologies, and wrote “Can We Build Tomorrow’s Breakthroughs?” Over the next few years, the answer to the headline’s question proved to be no. GE and Dow gave up on their most innovative manufacturing ventures in batteries and solar, while nearly none of the startups survived.

The US was great at inventing new stuff, it turns out, but lousy at making it.

The hope is that this situation is changing as the country builds up its manufacturing muscles. The stakes are particularly high. The value of producing strategic goods and their supply chains domestically—biomedicine, critical minerals, advanced semiconductors—is becoming obvious to both politicians and economists.

If we want to turn today’s scientific breakthroughs in energy, chips, drugs, and key military technologies such as drones into actual products, the US will need to once again be a manufacturing powerhouse.

Limited tariffs could help. That’s especially true, says DCVC’s Werner, in some strategically important areas marked by a history of unfair trade practices. Rare-earth magnets, which are found in everything from electric motors to drones to robots, are one example. “Decades ago, China flooded the US economy with low-cost magnets,” she says. “All our domestic magnet manufacturers went out of business.”

Now, she suggests, tariffs could provide short-term protection to US companies developing advanced manufacturing techniques to make those products, helping them compete with low-cost versions made in China. “You’re not going to be able to rely on tariffs forever, but it’s an example of the important role that tariffs could play,” she says.

Even Harvard’s Shih, who considers the sweeping Trump tariffs “crazy,” says that far more limited versions could be a useful tool in some circumstance to give temporary market protection to domestic manufacturers developing critical early-stage technologies. But, he adds, such tariffs need to be “very targeted” and quickly phased out.

For the successful use of tariffs, “you really have to understand how global trade and supply chains work,” Shih says. “And trust me, there is no evidence that these guys actually understand how it works.”

What’s really at stake when we talk about the country’s reindustrialization is our future pipeline of new technologies. The portfolio of technologies emerging from universities and startups in energy production and storage, materials, computing, and biomedicine has arguably never been richer. Meanwhile, AI and advanced robotics could soon transform our ability to manufacture these technologies and products.

The danger is that backward-looking policy choices geared toward a bygone era of manufacturing could destroy that promising progress.

From Model to Menswear Founder

Weston Jon Bouchér is a California-based menswear brand and the name of its founder. He launched the company in 2019 after a decade as a full-time apparel and lifestyle model.

He initially sought a white-label supplier with like-minded quality standards. Unsuccessful, he opted instead for “cut-and-sew manufacturing.” The result is a network of global manufacturers, all producing apparel to Weston’s designs and specifications, and sold entirely from his Shopify site.

In our recent conversation, he addressed the brand’s launch, production challenges, marketing tactics, and more.

Our entire audio is embedded below. The transcript is edited for clarity and length.

Eric Bandholz: Who are you?

Weston Bouchér: I’m a menswear designer based in San Diego. My background spans music and photography, but for the past six years, I’ve worked full-time on my self-named menswear line. I also run a YouTube channel focused on self-improvement, style, and grooming, drawing on my 10 years as a full-time model.

That modeling experience exposed me to a range of designer brands and fabrics, which sparked the idea to create my own line. I wanted to offer staple silhouettes — evergreen pieces that feel stylish year after year, not just trendy. I couldn’t find a white-label supplier that fully aligned with my standards, so I opted for cut-and-sew manufacturing instead.

If I could go back, I might simplify things. But my perfectionism and desire to fill a gap in the market — quality luxury basics at a fair price — pushed me to build something unique. I launched with just five core styles inspired by pieces in my wardrobe, each thoughtfully refined for fit, fabric, and longevity.

Bandholz: What’s your approach to design?

Bouchér: Initially, I was solving my own problem. I wanted a one-stop shop for staple pieces, but I found most brands lacked consistent fit, often chasing trends. Oversized styles are big now, but I’ve always preferred a slimmer, more timeless European look. It suits me better, so I became the fit model for my brand. I work closely with my developer, adjusting every sample down to the millimeter.

Being a slim-fit brand increases return rates since people fall between sizes. Artificial intelligence could help in the future, but for now, I constantly analyze reviews and return data to refine the fits. It’s one of the most complex aspects of running a lifestyle apparel brand, especially when working with manufacturers worldwide. Every fabric, every factory requires precise tech packs to ensure consistency. I’m obsessive about quality. Even the most minor issue drives me to tweak endlessly.

That’s why starting with something simpler, such as hats or underwear, might have made sense. But I’m in it now. I aim to simplify the customer experience: fewer options, better fabric, timeless silhouettes — polos, crewnecks, cardigans, denim, swim trunks — clothes guys can count on, without sacrificing comfort or style.

Bandholz: Tell us about your team.

Bouchér: In the first couple of years, it was mainly me. As the budget allowed, I gradually added to the team. Today, I work with 11 contractors, most of them fractional. The only near full-time staff are at our San Diego warehouse, where two to three people handle pick-and-pack and inventory management.

My goal is to stay lean and keep as much as I can under one roof, so when it’s time to scale, it’s just about adding capital and expanding distribution.

On the manufacturing side, I now work with 10 to 12 partners globally — two in Los Angeles, and others in Bangladesh, Thailand, and China. I used to work with a factory in Colombia, but that relationship ended. Manufacturing in the U.S. was always my goal, but the development costs made it nearly impossible early on. Now that I’ve grown, I’m revisiting that.

Margins are tricky with overseas production due to constantly changing tariffs and shipping costs. I started the brand in 2019 after attending the Sourcing at Magic textile show in Las Vegas, where I met manufacturers face-to-face. That experience gave me the confidence to go all in. Most factories require a minimum order of 2,000 to 4,000 units per style or color, which is tough when you’re starting. I got lucky. One manufacturer agreed to work with me on just 300 to 600 units. That deal is what made the brand possible.

Bandholz: What’s the long-term vision for the brand?

Bouchér: For me, it’s about building the lifestyle I’ve always wanted — more time with friends and family, travel, and a comfortable way of living. That’s not easy in Southern California with the high cost of living and the tax burden of running a business.

I want the brand’s legacy and mission to stay intact. I’ll never cash out and walk away — my name is on it, and I take pride in that. When customers leave positive reviews and share their love for the product, that’s the most rewarding part for me. I want to keep delivering that feeling of quality and care.

Ideally, I’ll remain self-funded. That way, I keep full control, especially when it comes to product integrity. I genuinely believe the reason we’ve grown so strongly is that I’ve paid close attention to the details. Good marketing can sell anything once, but getting someone to come back because they trust the product is where it matters.

Long-term, I hope to step back from day-to-day tasks and transition into a more visionary and creative oversight role — still involved in design, but with a greater focus on the brand’s image. Right now, my biggest motivation isn’t money — it’s quality of life. So I’m constantly thinking about who I can bring in to help me reclaim more of my time, while keeping the brand aligned with what made it special in the first place.

Bandholz: Is YouTube your primary marketing channel?

Bouchér: We’re not in physical stores. We sell directly from our Shopify-powered website. In the first year, YouTube was key. I used it to test the waters, and my male viewers were constantly asking style-related questions, which sparked the idea for the brand. I launched and got great feedback quickly, thanks to that audience. But as the brand grew, I had less time to make videos. I stopped posting regularly for over a year, and though I’ve picked it back up, it’s been a missed opportunity, primarily due to a lack of time.

After that first year, we pivoted to Meta ads. That’s now our primary driver for traffic and sales. I’m not using an agency. We’re running lean, and the numbers have been substantial, especially compared to what I hear from other brands. I’ve taken out a few loans for inventory, but we’ve managed to make it work without investors.

TikTok shifted the landscape. People want content that feels real, not overly produced. Some of our best-performing ads feature me in my bedroom, talking through different looks. The conversions have been great, and we’ve learned that simple, authentic content outperforms polished productions.

Bandholz: Have tariffs taken a toll?

Bouchér: I’ve learned not to be reactive, whether it’s personal challenges or business volatility like tariffs. I focus on what I can do each day. When the tariff situation heated up, I didn’t panic — I’ve been preparing for this. Even before it started, I told my developer we couldn’t rely too heavily on China. I had a gut feeling that this would become an issue, and I wish I had diversified even more back then.

Some of our manufacturing partners have had to add surcharges due to duties, which is tough. I value those relationships and won’t abandon them over short-term pressure — we’re all navigating this together. That said, I do have a backup plan. I’m looking at producing top-selling styles elsewhere if needed. But for now, I’m waiting, watching, and staying ready. Trade dynamics change daily. The best move is to remain flexible and strategic, not reactive.

Bandholz: Where can folks buy your clothes or reach out?

Bouchér: Our site is WestonJonBoucher.com. I’m @WestonBoucher on YouTube and LinkedIn.

Inside the controversial tree farms powering Apple’s carbon neutral goal

We were losing the light, and still about 20 kilometers from the main road, when the car shuddered and died at the edge of a strange forest. 

The grove grew as if indifferent to certain unspoken rules of botany. There was no understory, no foreground or background, only the trees themselves, which grew as a wall of bare trunks that rose 100 feet or so before concluding with a burst of thick foliage near the top. The rows of trees ran perhaps the length of a New York City block and fell away abruptly on either side into untidy fields of dirt and grass. The vista recalled the husk of a failed condo development, its first apartments marooned when the builders ran out of cash.

Standing there against the setting sun, the trees were, in their odd way, also rather stunning. I had no service out here—we had just left a remote nature preserve in southwestern Brazil—but I reached for my phone anyway, for a picture. The concern on the face of my travel partner, Clariana Vilela Borzone, a geographer and translator who grew up nearby, flicked to amusement. My camera roll was already full of eucalyptus.

The trees sprouted from every hillside, along every road, and more always seemed to be coming. Across the dirt path where we were stopped, another pasture had been cleared for planting. The sparse bushes and trees that had once shaded cattle in the fields had been toppled and piled up, as if in a Pleistocene gravesite. 

Borzone’s friends and neighbors were divided on the aesthetics of these groves. Some liked the order and eternal verdancy they brought to their slice of the Cerrado, a large botanical region that arcs diagonally across Brazil’s midsection. Its native savanna landscape was largely gnarled, low-slung, and, for much of the year, rather brown. And since most of that flora had been cleared decades ago for cattle pasture, it was browner and flatter still. Now that land was becoming trees. It was becoming beautiful. 

sun setting over the Cerrado with a flock of animals grazing in the foreground
Some locals say they like the order and eternal verdancy of the eucalyptus, which often stand in stark contrast to the Cerrado’s native savanna landscape.
PABLO ALBARENGA

Others considered this beauty a mirage. “Green deserts,” they called the groves, suggesting bounty from afar but holding only dirt and silence within. These were not actually forests teeming with animals and undergrowth, they charged, but at best tinder for a future megafire in a land parched, in part, by their vigorous growth. This was in fact a common complaint across Latin America: in Chile, the planted rows of eucalyptus were called the “green soldiers.” It was easy to imagine getting lost in the timber, a funhouse mirror of trunks as far as the eye could see.

The timber companies that planted these trees push back on these criticisms as caricatures of a genus that’s demonized all over the world. They point to their sustainable forestry certifications and their handsome spending on fire suppression, and to the microphones they’ve placed that record cacophonies of birds and prove the groves are anything but barren. Whether people like the look of these trees or not, they are meeting a human need, filling an insatiable demand for paper and pulp products all over the world. Much of the material for the world’s toilet and tissue paper is grown in Brazil, and that, they argue, is a good thing: Grow fast and furious here, as responsibly as possible, to save many more trees elsewhere. 

But I was in this region for a different reason: Apple. And also Microsoft and Meta and TSMC, and many smaller technology firms too. I was here because tech executives many thousands of miles away were racing toward, and in some cases stumbling, on their way to meet their climate promises—too little time, and too much demand for new devices and AI data centers. Not far from here, they had struck some of the largest-ever deals for carbon credits. They were asking something new of this tree: Could Latin America’s eucalyptus be a scalable climate solution? 

On a practical level, the answer seemed straightforward. Nobody disputed how swiftly or reliably eucalyptus could grow in the tropics. This knowledge was the product of decades of scientific study and tabulations of biomass for wood or paper. Each tree was roughly 47% carbon, which meant that many tons of it could be stored within every planted hectare. This could be observed taking place in real time, in the trees by the road. Come back and look at these young trees tomorrow, and you’d see it: fresh millimeters of carbon, chains of cellulose set into lignin. 

At the same time, Apple and the others were also investing in an industry, and a tree, with a long and controversial history in this part of Brazil and elsewhere. They were exerting their wealth and technological oversight to try to make timber operations more sustainable, more supportive of native flora, and less water intensive. Still, that was a hard sell to some here, where hundreds of thousands of hectares of pasture are already in line for planting; more trees were a bleak prospect in a land increasingly racked by drought and fire. Critics called the entire exercise an excuse to plant even more trees for profit. 

Borzone and I did not plan to stay and watch the eucalyptus grow. Garden or forest or desert, ally or antagonist—it did not matter much with the stars of the Southern Cross emerging and our gas tank empty. We gathered our things from our car and set off down the dirt road through the trees.

A big promise

My journey into the Cerrado had begun months earlier, in the fall of 2023, when the actress Octavia Spencer appeared as Mother Nature in an ad alongside Apple CEO Tim Cook. In 2020, the company had set a goal to go “net zero” by the end of the decade, at which point all of its products—laptops, CPUs, phones, earbuds—would be produced without increasing the level of carbon in the atmosphere. “Who wants to disappoint me first?” Mother Nature asked with a sly smile. It was a third of the way to 2030—a date embraced by many corporations aiming to stay in line with the UN’s goal of limiting warming to 1.5 °C over preindustrial levels—and where was the progress?

Tim Cook
Apple CEO Tim Cook stares down Octavia Spencer as “Mother Nature” in their ad spot touting the company’s claims for carbon neutrality.
APPLE VIA YOUTUBE

Cook was glad to inform her of the good news: The new Apple Watch was leading the way. A limited supply of the devices were already carbon neutral, thanks to things like recycled materials and parts that were specially sent by ship—not flown—from one factory to another. These special watches were labeled with a green leaf on Apple’s iconically soft, white boxes.

Critics were quick to point out that declaring an individual product “carbon neutral” while the company was still polluting had the whiff of an early victory lap, achieved with some convenient accounting. But the work on the watch spoke to the company’s grand ambitions. Apple claimed that changes like procuring renewable power and using recycled materials had enabled it to cut emissions 75% since 2015. “We’re always prioritizing reductions; they’ve got to come first,” Chris Busch, Apple’s director of environmental initiatives, told me soon after the launch. 

The company also acknowledged that it could not find reductions to balance all its emissions. But it was trying something new. 

Since the 1990s, companies have purchased carbon credits based largely on avoiding emissions. Take some patch of forest that was destined for destruction and protect it; the stored carbon that wasn’t lost is turned into credits. But as the carbon market expanded, so did suspicion of carbon math—in some cases, because of fraud or bad science, but also because efforts to contain deforestation are often frustrated, with destruction avoided in one place simply happening someplace else. Corporations that once counted on carbon credits for “avoided” emissions can no longer trust them. (Many consumers feel they can’t either, with some even suing Apple over the ways it used past carbon projects to make its claims about the Apple Watch.)

But that demand to cancel out carbon dioxide hasn’t gone anywhere—if anything, as AI-driven emissions knock some companies off track from reaching their carbon targets (and raise questions about the techniques used to claim emissions reductions), the need is growing. For Apple, even under the rosiest assumptions about how much it will continue to pollute, the gap is significant: In 2024, the company reported offsetting 700,000 metric tons of CO2, but the number it will need to hit in 2030 to meet its goals is 9.6 million. 

So the new move is to invest in carbon “removal” rather than avoidance. The idea implies a more solid achievement: taking carbon molecules out of the atmosphere. There are many ways to attempt that, from trying to change the pH of the oceans so that they absorb more of the molecules to building machines that suck carbon straight out of the air. But these are long-term fixes. None of these technologies work at the scale and price that would help Apple and others meet their shorter-term targets. For that, trees have emerged again as the answer. This time the idea is to plant new ones instead of protecting old ones. 

To expand those efforts in a way that would make a meaningful dent in emissions, Apple determined, it would also need to make carbon removal profitable. A big part of this effort would be driven by the Restore Fund, a $200 million partnership with Goldman Sachs and Conservation International, a US environmental nonprofit, to invest in “high quality” projects that promoted reforestation on degraded lands.  

Profits would come from responsibly turning trees into products, Goldman’s head of sustainability explained when the fund was announced in 2021. But it was also an opportunity for Apple, and future investors, to “almost look at, touch, and feel their carbon,” he said—a concreteness that carbon credits had previously failed to offer. “The aim is to generate real, measurable carbon benefits, but to do that alongside financial returns,” Busch told me. It was intended as a flywheel of sorts: more investors, more planting, more carbon—an approach to climate action that looked to abundance rather than sacrifice.

pedestrian walks past the Apple Store with reflection of branches in the glass
Apple's Carbon Neutral logo with the product Apple Watch

Apple markets its watch as a carbon-neutral product, a claim based in part on the use of carbon credits.

The announcement of the carbon-neutral Apple Watch was the occasion to promote the Restore Fund’s three initial investments, which included a native forestry project as well as eucalyptus farms in Paraguay and Brazil. The Brazilian timber plans were by far the largest in scale, and were managed by BTG Pactual, Latin America’s largest investment bank. 

Busch connected me with Mark Wishnie, head of sustainability for Timberland Investment Group, BTG’s US-based subsidiary, which acquires and manages properties on behalf of institutional investors. After years in the eucalyptus business, Wishnie, who lives in Seattle, was used to strong feelings about the tree. It’s just that kind of plant—heralded as useful, even ornamental; demonized as a fire starter, water-intensive, a weed. “Has the idea that eucalyptus is invasive come up?” he asked pointedly. (It’s an “exotic” species in Brazil, yes, but the risk of invasiveness is low for the varieties most commonly planted for forestry.) He invited detractors to consider the alternative to the scale and efficiency of eucalyptus, which, he pointed out, relieves the pressure that humans put on beloved old-growth forests elsewhere. 

Using eucalyptus for carbon removal also offered a new opportunity. Wishnie was overseeing a planned $1 billion initiative that was set to transform BTG’s timber portfolio; it aimed at a 50-50 split between timber and native restoration on old pastureland, with an emphasis on connecting habitats along rivers and streams. As a “high quality” project, it was meant to do better than business as usual. The conservation areas would exceed the legal requirements for native preservation in Brazil, which range from 20% to 35% in the Cerrado. In a part of Brazil that historically gets little conservation attention, it would potentially represent the largest effort yet to actually bring back the native landscape. 

When BTG approached Conservation International with the 50% figure, the organization thought it was “too good to be true,” Miguel Calmon, the senior director of the nonprofit’s Brazilian programs, told me. With the restoration work paid for by the green financing and the sale of carbon credits, scale and longevity could be achieved. “Some folks may do this, but they never do this as part of the business,” he said. “It comes from not a corporate responsibility. It’s about, really, the business that you can optimize.”

So far, BTG has raised $630 million for the initiative and earmarked 270,000 hectares, an area more than double the city of Los Angeles. The first farm in the plan, located on a 24,000-hectare cattle ranch, was called Project Alpha. The location, Wishnie said, was confidential. 

“We talk about restoration as if it’s a thing that happens,” Mark Wishnie says, promoting BTG’s plans to intermingle new farms alongside native preserves.
COURTESY OF BTG

But a property of that size sticks out, even in a land of large farms. It didn’t take very much digging into municipal land records in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, where many of the company’s Cerrado holdings are located, to turn up a recently sold farm that matched the size. It was called Fazenda Engano, or “Deception Farm”—hence the rebrand. The land was registered to an LLC with links to holding companies for other BTG eucalyptus plantations located in a neighboring region that locals had taken to calling the Cellulose Valley for its fast-expanding tree farms and pulp factories.  

The area was largely seen as a land of opportunity, even as some locals had raised the alarm over concerns that the land couldn’t handle the trees. They had allies in prominent ecologists who have long questioned the wisdom of tree-planting in the Cerrado—and increasingly spar with other conservationists who see great potential in turning pasture into forest. The fight has only gotten more heated as more investors hunt for new climate solutions. 

Still, where Apple goes, others often follow. And when it comes to sustainability, other companies look to it as a leader. I wasn’t sure if I could visit Project Alpha and see whether Apple and its partners had really found a better way to plant, but I started making plans to go to the Cerrado anyway, to see the forests behind those little green leaves on the box. 

Complex calculations

In 2015, a study by Thomas Crowther, an ecologist then at ETH Zürich, attempted a census of global tree cover, finding more than 3 trillion trees in all. A useful number, surprisingly hard to divine, like counting insects or bacteria. 

A follow-up study a few years later proved more controversial: Earth’s surface held space for at least 1 trillion more trees. That represented a chance to store 200 metric gigatons, or about 25%, of atmospheric carbon once they matured. (The paper was later corrected in multiple ways, including an acknowledgment that the carbon storage potential could be about one-third less.)

The study became a media sensation, soon followed by a fleet of tree-planting initiatives with “trillion” in the name—most prominently through a World Economic Forum effort launched by Salesforce CEO Marc Benioff at Davos, which President Donald Trump pledged to support during his first term. 

But for as long as tree planting has been heralded as a good deed—from Johnny Appleseed to programs that promise a tree for every shoe or laptop purchased—the act has also been chased closely by a follow-up question: How many of those trees survive? Consider Trump’s most notable planting, which placed an oak on the White House grounds in 2018. It died just over a year later. 

Donald Trump and Emmanuel Macron with shovels of dirt around a sapling. Melania Trump stands behind them watching.
During President Donald Trump’s first term, he and French president Emmanuel Macron planted an oak on the South Lawn of the White House.
CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY IMAGES

To critics, including Bill Gates, the efforts were symbolic of short-term thinking at the expense of deeper efforts to cut or remove carbon. (Gates’s spat with Benioff descended to name-calling in the New York Times. “Are we the science people or are we the idiots?” he asked.) The lifespan of a tree, after all, is brief—a pit stop—compared with the thousand-year carbon cycle, so its progeny must carry the torch to meaningfully cancel out emissions. Most don’t last that long. 

“The number of trees planted has become a kind of currency, but it’s meaningless,” Pedro Brancalion, a professor of tropical forestry at the University of São Paulo, told me. He had nothing against the trees, which the world could, in general, use a lot more of. But to him, a lot of efforts were riding more on “good vibes” than on careful strategy. 

Soon after arriving in São Paulo last summer, I drove some 150 miles into the hills outside the city to see the outdoor lab Brancalion has filled with experiments on how to plant trees better: trees given too many nutrients or too little; saplings monitored with wires and tubes like ICU admits, or skirted with tarps that snatch away rainwater. At the center of one of Brancalion’s plots stands a tower topped with a whirling station, the size of a hobby drone, monitoring carbon going in and out of the air (and, therefore, the nearby vegetation)—a molecular tango known as flux. 

Brancalion works part-time for a carbon-focused restoration company, Re:Green, which had recently sold 3 million carbon credits to Microsoft and was raising a mix of native trees in parts of the Amazon and the Atlantic Forest. While most of the trees in his lab were native ones too, like jacaranda and brazilwood, he also studies eucalyptus. The lab in fact sat on a former eucalyptus farm; in the heart of his fields, a grove of 80-year-old trees dripped bark like molting reptiles. 

Pedro H.S. Brancalion
To Pedro Brancalion, a lot of tree-planting efforts are riding more on “good vibes” than on careful strategy. He experiments with new ways to grow eucalyptus interspersed with native species.
PABLO ALBARENGA

Eucalyptus planting swelled dramatically under Brazil’s military dictatorship in the 1960s. The goal was self-sufficiency—a nation’s worth of timber and charcoal, quickly—and the expansion was fraught. Many opinions of the tree were forged in a spate of dubious land seizures followed by clearing of the existing vegetation—disputes that, in some places, linger to this day. Still, that campaign is also said to have done just as Wishnie described, easing the demand that would have been put on regions like the Amazon as Rio and São Paulo were built. 

The new trees also laid the foundation for Brazil to become a global hub for engineered forestry; it’s currently home to about a third of the world’s farmed eucalyptus. Today’s saplings are the products of decades of tinkering with clonal breeding, growing quick and straight, resistant to pestilence and drought, with exacting growth curves that chart biomass over time: Seven years to maturity is standard for pulp. Trees planted today grow more than three times as fast as their ancestors. 

If the goal is a trillion trees, or many millions of tons of carbon, no business is better suited to keeping count than timber. It might sound strange to claim carbon credits for trees that you plan to chop down and turn into toilet paper or chairs. Whatever carbon is stored in those ephemeral products is, of course, a blip compared with the millennia that CO2 hangs in the atmosphere. 

But these carbon projects take a longer view. While individual trees may go, more trees are planted. The forest constantly regrows and recaptures carbon from the air. Credits are issued annually over decades, so long as the long-term average of the carbon stored in the grove continues to increase. What’s more, because the timber is constantly being tracked, the carbon is easy to measure, solving a key problem with carbon credits. 

Most mature native ecosystems, whether tropical forests or grasslands, will eventually store more carbon than a tree farm. But that could take decades. Eucalyptus can be planted immediately, with great speed, and the first carbon credits are issued in just a few years. “It fits a corporate model very well, and it fits the verification model very well,” said Robin Chazdon, a forest researcher at Australia’s University of the Sunshine Coast.

Today’s eucalyptus saplings—like those shown here in Brancalion’s lab—are the products of decades of tinkering with clonal breeding, growing quick and straight.
PABLO ALBARENGA

Reliability and stability have also made eucalyptus, as well as pine, quietly dominant in global planting efforts. A 2019 analysis published in Nature found that 45% of carbon removal projects the researchers studied worldwide involved single-species tree farms. In Brazil, the figure was 82%. The authors called this a “scandal,” accusing environmental organizations and financiers of misleading the public and pursuing speed and convenience at the expense of native restoration.  

In 2023, the nonprofit Verra, the largest bearer of carbon credit standards, said it would forbid projects using “non-native monocultures”—that is, plants like eucalyptus or pine that don’t naturally grow in the places where they’re being farmed. The idea was to assuage concerns that carbon credits were going to plantations that would have been built anyway given the demand for wood, meaning they wouldn’t actually remove any extra carbon from the atmosphere.

The uproar was immediate—from timber companies, but also from carbon developers and NGOs. How would it be possible to scale anything—conservation, carbon removal—without them?

Verra reversed course several months later. It would allow non-native monocultures so long as they grew in land that was deemed “degraded,” or previously cleared of vegetation—land like cattle pasture. And it took steps to avoid counting plantings in close proximity to other areas of fast tree growth, the idea being that they wanted to avoid rewarding purely industrial projects that would’ve been planted anyway. 

Native trees surrounded by eucalyptus
Despite the potential benefits of intermixing them, foresters generally prefer to keep eucalyptus and native species separate.
PABLO ALBARENGA

Brancalion happened to agree with the criticisms of exotic monocultures. But all the same, he believed eucalyptus had been unfairly demonized. It was a marvelous genus, actually, with nearly 800 species with unique adaptations. Natives could be planted as monocultures too, or on stolen land, or tended with little care. He had been testing ways to turn eucalyptus from perceived foes into friends of native forest restoration.

His idea was to use rows of eucalyptus, which rocket above native species, as a kind of stabilizer. While these natives can be valuable—either as lumber or for biodiversity—they may grow slowly, or twist in ways that make their wood unprofitable, or suddenly and inexplicably die. It’s never like that with eucalyptus, which are wonderfully predictable growers. Eventually, their harvested wood would help pay for the hard work of growing the others. 

In practice, foresters have generally preferred to keep things separate. Eucalyptus here; restoration there. It was far more efficient. The approach was emblematic, Brancalion thought, of letting the economics of the industry guide what was planted, how, and where, even with green finance involved. Though he admitted he was speaking as something of a competitor given his own carbon work, he was perplexed by Apple’s choices. The world’s richest company was doing eucalyptus? And with a bank better known locally as a major investor in industries, like beef and soy, that contributed to deforestation than any efforts for native restoration.

It also worried him to see the planting happening west of here, in the Cerrado, where land is cheaper and also, for much of the year, drier. “It’s like a bomb,” Brancalion told me. “You can come interview me in five, six years. You don’t have to be super smart to realize what will happen after planting too many eucalyptus in a dry region.” He wished me luck on my journey westward.   

The sacrifice zone

Savanna implies openness, but the European settlers passing through the Cerrado called it the opposite; the name literally means “closed.” Grasses and shrubs grow to chest height, scaled as if to maximize human inconvenience. A machete is advised. 

As I headed with Borzone toward a small nature preserve called Parque do Pombo, she told me that young Brazilians are often raised with a sense of dislike, if not fear, of this land. When Borzone texted her mother, a local biologist, to say where we were going, she replied: “I hear that place is full of ticks.” (Her intel, it turned out, was correct.)

At one point, even prominent ecologists, fearing total destruction of the Amazon, advocated moving industry to the Cerrado, invoking a myth about casting a cow into piranha-infested waters so that the other cows could ford downstream.
PABLO ALBARENGA

What can be easy to miss is the fantastic variety of these plants, the result of natural selection cranked into overdrive. Species, many of which blew in from the Amazon, survived by growing deep roots through the acidic soil and thicker bark to resist regular brush fires. Many of the trees developed the ability to shrivel upon themselves and drop their leaves during the long, dry winter. Some call it a forest that has grown upside down, because much of the growth occurs in the roots. The Cerrado is home to 12,000 flowering plant species, 4,000 of which are found only there. In terms of biodiversity, it is second in the world only to its more famous neighbor, the Amazon. 

Caryocar brasiliense flowers and fruits
Pequi is an edible fruit-bearing tree common in the Cerrado—one of the many unique species native to the area.
ADOBE STOCK

Each stop on our drive seemed to yield a new treasure for Borzone to show me: Guavira, a tree that bears fruit in grape-like bunches that appear only two weeks in a year; it can be made into a jam that is exceptionally good on toast. Pequi, more divisive, like fermented mango mixed with cheese. Others bear names Borzone can only faintly recall in the Indigenous Guaraní language and is thus unable to google. Certain uses are more memorable: Give this one here, a tiny frond that looks like a miniature Christmas fir, to make someone get pregnant.

Borzone had grown up in the heart of the savanna, and the land had changed significantly since she was a kid going to the river every weekend with her family. Since the 1970s, about half of the savanna has been cleared, mostly for ranching and, where the soil is good, soybeans. At that time, even prominent ecologists, fearing total destruction of the Amazon, advocated moving industry here, invoking what Brazilians call the boi de piranha—a myth about casting a cow into infested waters so that the other cows could ford downstream. 

Toby Pennington, a Cerrado ecologist at the University of Exeter, told me it remains a sacrificial zone, at times faring worse when environmentally minded politicians are in power. In 2023, when deforestation fell by half in the Amazon, it rose by 43% in the Cerrado. Some ecologists warn that this ecosystem could be entirely gone in the next decade.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, there’s a certain prickliness among grassland researchers, who are, like their chosen flora, used to being trampled. In 2019, 46 of them authored a response in Science to Crowther’s trillion-trees study, arguing not about tree counting but about the land he proposed for reforestation. Much of it, they argued, including places like the Cerrado, was not appropriate for so many trees. It was too much biomass for the land to handle. (If their point was not already clear, the scientists later labeled the phenomenon “biome awareness disparity,” or BAD.)

“It’s a controversial ecosystem,” said Natashi Pilon, a grassland ecologist at the University of Campinas near São Paulo. “With Cerrado, you have to forget everything that you learn about ecology, because it’s all based in forest ecology. In the Cerrado, everything works the opposite way. Burning? It’s good. Shade? It’s not good.” The Cerrado contains a vast range of landscapes, from grassy fields to wooded forests, but the majority of it, she explained, is poorly suited to certain rules of carbon finance that would incentivize people to protect or restore it. While the underground forest stores plenty of carbon, it builds up its stock slowly and can be difficult to measure. 

The result is a slightly uncomfortable position for ecologists studying and trying to protect a vanishing landscape. Pilon and her former academic advisor, Giselda Durigan, a Cerrado ecologist at the Environmental Research Institute of the State of São Paulo and one of the scientists behind BAD, have gotten accustomed to pushing back on people who arrived preaching “improvement” through trees—first from nonprofits, mostly of the trillion-trees variety, but now from the timber industry. “They are using the carbon discourse as one more argument to say that business is great,” Durigan told me. “They are happy to be seen as the good guys.” 

Durigan saw tragedy in the way that Cerrado had been transformed into cattle pasture in just a generation, but there was also opportunity in restoring it once the cattle left. Bringing the Cerrado back would be hard work—usually requiring fire and hacking away at invasive grasses. But even simply leaving it alone could allow the ecosystem to begin to repair itself and offer something like the old savanna habitat. Abandoned eucalyptus farms, by contrast, were nightmares to return to native vegetation; the strange Cerrado plants refused to take root in the highly modified soil. 

In recent years, Durigan had visited hundreds of eucalyptus farms in the area, shadowing her students who had been hired by timber companies to help establish promised corridors of native vegetation in accordance with federal rules. “They’re planting entire watersheds,” she said. “The rivers are dying.” 

Durigan saw plants in isolated patches growing taller than they normally would, largely thanks to the suppression of regular brush fires. They were throwing shade on the herbs and grasses and drawing more water. The result was an environment gradually choking on itself, at risk of collapse during drought and retaining only a fraction of the Cerrado’s original diversity. If this was what people meant by bringing back the Cerrado, she believed it was only hastening its ultimate disappearance. 

In a recent survey of the watershed around the Parque do Pombo, which is hemmed in on each side by eucalyptus, two other researchers reported finding “devastation” and turned to Plato’s description of Attica’s forests, cleared to build the city of Athens: “What remains now compared to what existed is like the skeleton of a sick man … All the rich and soft soil has dissolved, leaving the country of skin and bones.” 

aerial view of the highway with trucks. On the right hand side trees are being felled and stacked by machines
A highway runs through the Cellulose Valley, connecting commercial eucalyptus farms and pulp factories.
PABLO ALBARENGA

After a long day of touring the land—and spinning out on the clay—we found that our fuel was low. The Parque do Pombo groundskeeper looked over at his rusting fuel tank and apologized. It had been spoiled by the last rain. At least, he said, it was all downhill to the highway. 

The road of opportunity

We only made it about halfway down the eucalyptus-lined road. After the car huffed and left us stranded, Borzone and I started walking toward the highway, anticipating a long night. We remembered locals’ talk of jaguars recently pushed into the area by development. 

But after only 30 minutes or so, a set of lights came into view across the plain. Then another, and another. Then the outline of a tractor, a small tanker truck, and, somewhat curiously, a tour bus. The gear and the vehicles bore the logo of Suzano, the world’s largest pulp and paper company.

After talking to a worker, we boarded the empty tour bus and were taken to a cluster of spotlit tents, where women prepared eucalyptus seedlings, stacking crates of them on white fold-out tables. A night shift like this one was unusual. But they were working around the clock—aiming to plant a million trees per day across Suzano’s farms, in preparation for opening the world’s largest pulp factory just down the highway. It would open in a few weeks with a capacity of 2.55 million metric tons of pulp per year. 

Semi trucks laden with trees
Eucalyptus has become the region’s new lifeblood. “I’m going to plant some eucalyptus / I’ll get rich and you’ll fall in love with me,” sings a local country duo.
PABLO ALBARENGA

The tour bus was standing by to take the workers down the highway at 1 a.m., arriving in the nearest city, Três Lagoas, by 3 a.m. to pick up the next shift. “You don’t do this work without a few birds at home to feed,” a driver remarked as he watched his colleagues filling holes in the field by the light of their headlamps. After getting permission from his boss, he drove us an hour each way to town to the nearest gas station.

This highway through the Cellulose Valley has become known as a road of opportunity, with eucalyptus as the region’s new lifeblood after the cattle industry shrank its footprint. Not far from the new Suzano factory, a popular roadside attraction is an oversize sculpture of a black bull at the gates of a well-known ranch. The ranch was recently planted, and the bull is now guarded by a phalanx of eucalyptus. 

On TikTok, workers post selfies and views from tractors in the nearby groves, backed by a song from the local country music duo Jads e Jadson. “I’m going to plant some eucalyptus / I’ll get rich and you’ll fall in love with me,” sings a down-on-his-luck man at risk of losing his fiancée. Later, when he cuts down the trees and becomes a wealthy man with better options, he cuts off his betrothed, too. 

The race to plant more eucalyptus here is backed heavily by the state government, which last year waived environmental requirements for new farms on pasture and hopes to quickly double its area in just a few years. The trees were an important component of Brazil’s plan to meet its global climate commitments, and the timber industry was keen to cash in. Companies like Suzano have already proposed that tens of thousands of their hectares become eligible for carbon credits. 

What’s top of mind for everyone, though, is worsening fires. Even when we visited in midwinter, the weather was hot and dry. The wider region was in a deep drought, perhaps the worst in 700 years, and in a few weeks, one of the worst fire seasons ever would begin. Suzano would be forced to make a rare pause in its planting when soil temperatures reached 154 °F. 

Posted along the highway are constant reminders of the coming danger: signs, emblazoned with the logos of a dozen timber companies, that read “FOGO ZERO,” or “ZERO FIRE.” 

land recently cleared on eucalyptus with the straight trunk stacked in piles along a dirt road for the machines to pass through
The race to plant more eucalyptus is backed heavily by the state government, which hopes to quickly double its area in just a few years.
PABLO ALBARENGA

In other places struck by megafires, like Portugal and Chile, eucalyptus has been blamed for worsening the flames. (The Chilean government has recently excluded pine and eucalyptus farms from its climate plans.) But here in Brazil, where climate change is already supersizing the blazes, the industry offers sophisticated systems to detect and suppress fires, argued Calmon of Conservation International. “You really need to protect it because that’s your asset,” he said. (BTG also noted that in parts of the Cerrado where human activity has increased, fires have decreased.) 

Eucalyptus is often portrayed as impossibly thirsty compared with other trees, but Calmon pointed out it is not uniquely so. In some parts of the Cerrado, it has been found to consume four times as much water as native vegetation; in others, the two landscapes have been roughly in line. It depends on many factors—what type of soil it’s planted in, what Cerrado vegetation coexists with it, how intensely the eucalyptus is farmed. Timber companies, which have no interest in seeing their own plantations run dry, invest heavily in managing water. Another hope, Wishnie told me, is that by vastly increasing the forest canopy, the new eucalyptus will actually gather moisture and help produce rain. 

Marine Dubos-Raoul
Marine Dubos-Raoul has tracked waves of planting in the Cerrado for years and has spoken to residents who worry about how the trees strain local water supplies.
PABLO ALBARENGA

That’s a common narrative and one that’s been taught in schools here in Três Lagoas for decades, Borzone explained when we met up the day after our rescue with Marine Dubos-Raoul, a local geographer and university professor, and two of her students. Dubos-Raoul laughed uneasily. If this idea about rain was in fact true, they hadn’t seen it here. They crouched around the table at the cafe, speaking in a hush; their opinions weren’t particularly popular in this lumber town.

Dubos-Raoul had long tracked the impacts of the waves of planting on longtime rural residents, who complained that industry had taken their water or sprayed their gardens with pesticides. 

The evidence tying the trees to water problems in the region, Dubos-Raoul admitted, is more anecdotal than data driven. But she heard it in conversation after conversation. “People would have tears in their eyes,” she said. “It was very clear to them that it was connected to the arrival of the eucalyptus.” (Since our meeting, a study, carried out in response to demands from local residents, has blamed the planting for 350 depleted springs in the area, sparking a rare state inquiry into the issue.) In any case, Dubos-Raoul thought, it didn’t make much sense to keep adding matches to the tinderbox.

Shortly after talking with Dubos-Raoul, we ventured to the town of Ribas do Rio Pardo to meet Charlin Castro at his family’s river resort. Suzano’s new pulp factory stood on the horizon, surrounded by one of the densest areas of planting in the region. 

The Suzano pulp factory—the world’s largest—has pulled the once-sleepy town of Ribas do Rio Pardo into the bustling hub of Brazil’s eucalyptus industry.
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five people with a dog, seated outdoors under a pergola
Charlin Castro, his father Camilo, and other locals talk about how the area around the family’s river resort has changed since eucalyptus came to town.
two men in the river; the opposite bank has been cordoned off with caution tape.
The public area for bathing on the far side of the shrinking river was closed after the Suzano pulp factory was installed.

Charlin and Camilo admit they aren’t exactly sure what is causing low water levels—maybe it’s silt, maybe it’s the trees.
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With thousands of workers arriving, mostly temporarily, to build the factory and plant the fields, the sleepy farming village had turned into a boomtown, and developed something of a lawless reputation—prostitution, homelessness, collisions between logging trucks and drunk drivers—and Castro was chronicling much of it for a hyperlocal Instagram news outlet, while also running for city council. 

But overall, he was thankful to Suzano. The factory was transforming the town into a “a real place,” as he put it, even if change was at times painful. 

His father, Camilo, gestured with a sinewy arm over to the water, where he recalled boat races involving canoes with crews of a dozen. That was 30 years ago. It was impossible to imagine now as I watched a family cool off in this bend in the river, the water just knee deep. But it’s hard to say what exactly is causing the low water levels. Perhaps it’s silt from the ranches, Charlin suggested. Or a change in the climate. Or, maybe, it could be the trees. 

Upstream, Ana Cláudia (who goes by “Tica”) and Antonio Gilberto Lima were more certain what was to blame. The couple, who are in their mid-60s, live in a simple brick house surrounded by fruit trees. They moved there a decade ago, seeking a calm retirement—one of a hundred or so families taking part in land reforms that returned land to smallholders. But recently, life has been harder. To preserve their well, they had let their vegetable garden go to seed. Streams were dry, and the old pools in the pastures where they used to fish were gone, replaced by trees; tapirs were rummaging through their garden, pushed, they believed, by lack of habitat. 

Antônio Gilberto Lima and Ana Cláudia Gregório Braguim standing in front of semi trucks
Ana Cláudia and Antonio Gilberto Lima have seen their land struggle since eucalyptus plantations took over the region.
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close up of a hand touching a branch with numerous bite holes and brown spots on all the leaves
Plants have been attacked by hungry insects at their home.
closeup on a cluster of insects nesting in a plant
Pollinators like these stingless bees, faced with a lack of variety of native plant species, must fly greater distances to collect pollen they need.

They were surrounded by eucalyptus, planted in waves with the arrival of each new factory. No one was listening, they told me, as the cattle herd bellowed outside the door. “The trees are sad,” Gilberto said, looking out over his few dozen pale-humped animals grazing around scattered Cerrado species left in the paddock. Tica told me she knew that paper and pulp had to come from somewhere, and that many people locally were benefiting. But the downsides were getting overlooked, she thought. They had signed a petition to the government, organized by Dubos-Raoul, seeking to rein in the industry. Perhaps, she hoped, it could reach American investors, too. 

The green halo 

A few weeks before my trip, BTG had decided it was ready to show off Project Alpha. The visit was set for my last day in Brazil; the farm formerly known as Fazenda Engano was further upriver in Camapuã, a town that borders Ribas do Rio Pardo. It was a long, circuitous drive north to get out there, but it wouldn’t be that way much longer; a new highway was being paved that would directly connect the two towns, part of an initiative between the timber industry and government to expand the cellulose hub northward. A local official told me he expected tens of thousands of hectares of eucalyptus in the next few years.

For now, though, it was still the frontier. The intention was to plant “well outside the forest sector,” Wishnie told me—not directly in the shadow of a mill, but close enough for the operation to be practical, with access to labor and logistics. That distance was important evidence that the trees would store more carbon than what’s accounted for in a business-as-usual scenario. The other guarantee was the restoration. It wasn’t good business to buy land and not plant every acre you could with timber. It was made possible only with green investments from Apple and others.

That morning, Wishnie had emailed me a press release announcing that Microsoft had joined Apple in seeking help from BTG to help meet its carbon demands. The technology giant had made the largest-ever purchase of carbon credits, representing 8 million tons of CO2, from Project Alpha, following smaller commitments from TSMC and Murata, two of Apple’s suppliers. 

I was set to meet Carlos Guerreiro, head of Latin American operations for BTG’s timber subsidiary, at a gas station in town, where we would set off together for the 24,000-hectare property. A forester in Brazil for much of his life, he had flown in from his home near São Paulo early that morning; he planned to check out the progress of the planting at Project Alpha and then swing down to the bank’s properties across the Cellulose Valley, where BTG was finalizing a $376 million deal to sell land to Suzano. 

BTG plans to mix preserves of native restoration and eucalyptus farms and eventually reach a 50-50 mix on their properties.
COURTESY OF BTG

Guerreiro defended BTG’s existing holdings as sustainable engines of development in the region. But all the same, Project Alpha felt like a new beginning for the company, he told me. About a quarter of this property had been left untouched when the pasture was first cleared in the 1980s, but the plan now was to restore an additional 13% of the property to native Cerrado plants, bringing the total to 37%. (BTG says it will protect more land on future farms to arrive at its 50-50 target.) Individual patches of existing native vegetation would be merged with others around the property, creating a 400-meter corridor that largely followed the streams and rivers—beyond the 60 meters required by law. 

The restoration work was happening with the help of researchers from a Brazilian university, though they were still testing the best methods. We stood over trenches that had been planted with native seeds just weeks before, shoots only starting to poke out of the dirt. Letting the land regenerate on its own was often preferable, Guerreiro told me, but the best approach would depend on the specifics of each location. In other places, assistance with planting or tending or clearing back the invasive grasses could be better. 

The approach of largely letting things be was already yielding results, he noted: In parts of the property that hadn’t been grazed in years, they could already see the hardscrabble Cerrado clawing back with a vengeance. They’d been marveling at the fauna, caught on camera traps: tapirs, anteaters, all kinds of birds. They had even spotted a jaguar. The project would ensure that this growth would continue for decades. The land wouldn’t be sold to another rancher and go back to looking like other parts of the property, which were regularly cleared of native habitat. The hope, he said, was that over time the regenerating ecosystems would store more carbon, and generate more credits, than the eucalyptus. (The company intends to submit its carbon plans to Verra later this year.)

We stopped for lunch at the dividing line between the preserve and the eucalyptus, eating ham sandwiches in the shade of the oldest trees on the property, already two stories tall and still, by Guerreiro’s estimate, putting on a centimeter per day. He was planting at a rate of 40,000 seedlings per day in neat trenches filled with white lime to make the sandy Cerrado soil more inviting. In seven years or so, half of the trees will be thinned and pulped. The rest will keep growing. They’ll stand for seven years longer and grow thick and firm enough for plywood. The process will then start anew. Guerreiro described a model where clusters of farms mixed with preserves like this one will be planted around mills throughout the Cerrado. But nothing firm had been decided.

Eucalyptus tree seedlings
“Under no circumstances should planting eucalyptus ever be considered a viable project to receive carbon credits in the Cerrado,” says Lucy Rowland, an expert on the region at the University of Exeter.
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This experiment, Wishnie told me later, could have a big payoff. The important thing, he reminded me, was that stretches of the Cerrado would be protected at a scale no one had achieved before—something that wouldn’t happen without eucalyptus. He strongly disagreed with the scientists who said eucalyptus didn’t fit here. The government had analyzed the watershed, he explained, and he was confident the land could support the trees. At the end of the day, the choice was between doing something and doing nothing. “We talk about restoration as if it’s a thing that happens,” he said. 

When I asked Pilon to take a look at satellite imagery and photos of the property, she was unimpressed. It looked to her like yet another misguided attempt at planting trees in an area that had once naturally been a dense savanna. (Her assessment is supported by a land survey from the 1980s that classified this land as a typical Cerrado ecosystem—some trees, but mostly shrubbery. BTG responded that the survey was incorrect and the satellite images clearly showed a closed-canopy forest.) 

As Lucy Rowland, an expert on the region at the University of Exeter and another BAD signatory, put it: “Under no circumstances should planting eucalyptus ever be considered a viable project to receive carbon credits in the Cerrado.” 

Over months of reporting, the way that both sides spoke in absolutes about how to save this vanishing ecosystem had become familiar. Chazdon, the Australia-based forest researcher, told me she too felt that the tenor of the argument over how and where to grow has become more vehement as demand for tree-based carbon removal has intensified. “Nobody’s a villain,” she said. “There are disconnects on both sides.”

Chazdon had been excited to hear about BTG’s project. It was, she thought, the type of thing that was sorely needed in conservation—mixing profitable enterprises with an approach to restoration that considers the wider landscape. “I can understand why the Cerrado ecologists are up in arms,” she said. “They get the feeling that nobody cares about their ecosystems.” But demands for ecological purity could indeed get in the way of doing much of anything—especially in places like the Cerrado, where laws and financing favor destruction over restoration. 

Still, thinking about the scale of the carbon removal problem, she considered it sensible to wonder about the future that was being hatched. While there is, in fact, a limit to how much additional land the world needs for pulp and plywood products in the near future, there is virtually no limit to how much land it could devote to sequestering carbon. Which means we need to ask hard questions about the best way to use it. 

More eucalyptus may support claims about greener paper products, but some argue that it’s not so simple for laptops and smart watches and ChatGPT queries.
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It was true, Chazdon said, that planting eucalyptus in the Cerrado was an act of destruction—it’d make that land nearly impossible to recover. The areas preserved in between them would also likely struggle to fully renew itself, without fire or clearing. She would feel more comfortable with such large-scale projects if the bar for restoration were much higher—say, 75% or more. But that almost certainly wouldn’t satisfy her grassland colleagues who don’t want any eucalyptus at all. And it might not fit the profit model—the flywheel that Apple and others are seeking in order to scale up carbon removal fast. 

Barbara Haya, who studies carbon offsets at the University of California, Berkeley, encouraged me to think about all of it differently. The improvements to planting eucalyptus here, at this farm, could be a perfectly good thing for this industry, she said. Perhaps they merit some claim about greener toilet paper or plywood. Haya would leave that debate to the ecologists.

But we weren’t talking about toilet paper or plywood. We were talking about laptops and smart watches and ChatGPT. And the path to connecting those things to these trees was more convoluted. The carbon had to be disentangled first from the wood’s other profitable uses and then from the wider changes that were happening in this region and its industries. There seemed to be many plausible scenarios for where this land was heading. Was eucalyptus the only feasible route for carbon to find its way here? 

Haya is among the experts who argue that the idea of precisely canceling out corporate emissions to reach carbon neutrality is a broken one. That’s not to say protecting nature can’t help fight climate change. Conserving existing forests and grasslands, for example, could often yield greater carbon and biodiversity benefits in the long run than planting new forests. But the carbon math used to justify those efforts was often fuzzier. This makes every claim of carbon neutrality fragile and drives companies toward projects that are easier to prove, she thinks, but perhaps have less impact. 

One idea is that companies should instead shift to a “contribution” model that tracks how much money they put toward climate mitigation, without worrying about the exact amount of carbon removed. “Let’s say the goal is to save the Cerrado,” Haya said. “Could they put that same amount of money and really make a difference?” Such an approach, she pointed out, could help finance the preservation of those last intact Cerrado remnants. Or it could fund restoration, even if the restored vegetation takes years to grow or sometimes needs to burn. 

The approach raises its own questions—about how to measure the impact of those investments and what kinds of incentives would motivate corporations to act. But it’s a vision that has gained more popularity as scrutiny of carbon credits grows and the options available to companies narrow. With the current state of the world, “what private companies do matters more than ever,” Haya told me. “We need them not to waste money.” 

In the meantime, it’s up to the consumer reading the label to decide what sort of path we’re on. 

A row of eucalyptus running horizontally across the frame in a pink and purple sky
“There’s nothing wrong with the trees,” geographer and translator Clariana Vilela Borzone says. “I have to remind myself of that.”
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Before we left the farm, Borzone and I had one more task: to plant a tree. The sun was getting low over Project Alpha when I was handed an iron contraption that cradled a eucalyptus seedling, pulled from a tractor piled with plants. 

“There’s nothing wrong with the trees,” Borzone had said earlier, squinting up at the row of 18-month-old eucalyptus, their fluttering leaves flashing in the hot wind as if in an ill-practiced burlesque show. “I have to remind myself of that.” But still it felt strange putting one in the ground. We were asking so much of it, after all. And we were poised to ask more.

I squeezed the handle, pulling the iron hinge taut and forcing the plant deep into the soil. It poked out at a slight angle that I was sure someone else would need to fix later, or else this eucalyptus tree would grow askew. I was slow and clumsy in my work, and by the time I finished, the tractor was far ahead of us, impossibly small on the horizon. The worker grabbed the tool from my hand and headed toward it, pushing seedlings down as he went, hurried but precise, one tree after another.

Gregory Barber is a journalist based in San Francisco. 

This story was produced in partnership with the McGraw Center for Business Journalism at the Craig Newmark Graduate School of Journalism at the City University of New York, as well as support from the Fund for Investigative Journalism.